MILAN - With the help of superstar models Gigi and Bella Hadid, on September 22, 2016, Karl Lagerfeld unveiled his vision of what stylish young women will be wearing next summer: Glitter lips and big pants that everyone can see. The veteran German designer's latest work for Fendi was a playful affair - or ‘decorative opulence twisted with an athletic elan’, as he put it in his notes for the Roman house's 2017 Spring Summer collection.
Tennis champion Serena Williams provided some sporting star power to the front row, chatting animatedly with fashion Godmother Anna Wintour and veteran style correspondent Suzy Menkes. Adding to the celebrity star dust, the Hadid sisters pouted their glitter-coated lips obligingly for the backstage cameras to highlight a look that Lagerfeld revealed had been inspired by a cartoon princess: Vanellope von Schweetz from ‘Wreck-It Ralph’.
After years in which many fashion trendsetters have seemed obsessed with getting young women to bear their nipples to the world, Lagerfeld's take on showing off your knickers was all about the fabrics rather than skin-tone. Asymmetric, layered mini-dresses allowed only occasional flashes of underpants cut like track shorts of an Olympic sprinter. But floating aprons and ribbon-tied gowns left less to the imagination from what fashionistas will presumably now have to call the rear view. Dresses were frequently pinched at the waist, enhancing the transparency of cascading sheer materials.
Where fewer see-through textiles were deployed slashes up the side kept the lingerie on show. A body top was paired with a sheer skirt fastened by a bow over the derriere. The colour palette was designed to catch the eye: apricot, blush pink and pale mint were combined with sporty stripes in scarlet, burgundy and marigold.
The collection also saw Fendi unveil the latest addition to the eye-wateringly expensive range of accessories that drive the company's revenues. The Kan I study lock bag comes covered in candy-coloured studs, rosette embroidery and floral ribbons. “In terms of innovation and research, this was one of the best collections we have ever produced,” Fendi CEO Pietro Beccari told reporters.
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